Wednesday, November 4, 2015

pho noodle soup

This is what I crave all winter long, and I finally decided to learn how to make my own. It's not the simplest of recipes, but I figured if I spent time upfront making the broth, then I could freeze it and have it on hand whenever I like.

pho noodle soup
makes 6 servings

For Broth: 
5 lbs beef marrow or bones
1 lb beef tendon
2 (3 in) pieces ginger, cut in half lengthwise and lightly bruised with the flat side of a knife
2 yellow onions, peeled
1/4 cup fish sauce
3 tbsp sugar
10 whole star anise
6 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick (optional)
1 tbsp salt

 For Noodle Soup and Garnishes:
1 lb dried, wide rice sticks, soaked, cooked and drained
1/2 lb beef meatballs
1/2 lb beef sirloin, sliced paper-thin across the grain (I find them in Chinatown, pre-sliced)
1/2 yellow onion, sliced paper-thin
3 scallions, cut into thin rings
1/3 cup chopped cilantro
1 lb bean sprouts
10 sprigs basil
6 Thai or 1 serrano chili, cut into thin rings
1 lime, cut into wedges

In a large stockpot, bring 6 quarts water to a boil. Place the bones and in a second pot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil and boil vigorously for 5 minutes. Using tongs, carefully transfer the bones and beef to the first pot of boiling water. Discard the water in which the meat cooked. (This cleans the bones and meat and reduces the impurities that can cloud the broth.)

Put the tendon in the emptied pot and cover with water at least 3 in above the tendon. Boil tendon and then simmer until soft, about 4 hours.  Once tendon is soft, remove from pot and once cool enough to handle, slice and add to broth. (I like to save my tendon broth and add salt and green onions for a simple white bone broth for when I'm sick or feeling under the weather).

Meanwhile, char your onions and ginger: (I think this can be done in an oven too, but haven't tried that method) Hold the piece of onion or ginger with tongs directly over an open flame or place it directly on a medium-hot electric burner. While turning, char until the edges are slightly blackened and the ginger is fragrant, about 3-4 mins. Char the onions in the same way. Peel and discard the blackened skin of the ginger and onions.

When the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer. Skim the surface often to remove any foam and fat. Add the charred ginger and onions, fish sauce and sugar.

When the broth has been simmering for about 1 1/2 hours total, wrap the star anise and cloves in a spice bag (or piece of cheesecloth) and add to the broth. Let infuse until the broth is fragrant, about 30 minutes. Remove and discard both the spice bag and onions. Add the salt and continue to simmer, skimming as necessary, until you're ready to assemble the dish. The broth needs to cook for at least 2 hours. (The broth will taste salty but will be balanced once the noodles and accompaniments are added.) Leave the remaining bones to simmer in the pot while you assemble the bowls.

To serve, place the cooked noodles in preheated bowls. (If the noodles are not hot, reheat them in a microwave or dip them briefly in boiling water to prevent them from cooling down the soup.) Place a few slices of the raw sirloin on the noodles. Bring the broth to a rolling boil; ladle about 2 to 3 cups into each bowl. The broth will cook the raw beef instantly. Garnish with yellow onions, scallions and cilantro. Serve immediately, inviting guests to garnish the bowls with bean sprouts, herbs, chilies, lime juice and black pepper.

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